I wasn’t happy with any of the motor mounts I found for an FE (the type of Ford engine I’m using) and the Factory Five. I want very little rotational movement from the engine and essentially no fore/aft movement. This is because the engine is tight in the engine bay and there are a few things (bellhousing, etc.) that will hit the frame or other things if the engine moves much.
So, I opted to make mounts. They’re made out of 3/16″ mild steel plate. The tube is DOM steel and there are polyurethane bushings, not shown in the photo. The bushings are basically standard suspension parts so they’re cheap and plentiful.
And here is the answer to the clearance problem. I decided to make some “bubbles” to clear the valve cover and rear cylinder header tube. This is the first time I’ve made a part like this. I used .040″ 6061-T6, which I annealed before forming, along with some plastic mallets and a sand “beater bag”. I flush rivited the bubbles to the footbox with flat head aircraft rivets and polished it. Looks great! The last picture shows the ouboard “rail” that I milled. This will be used to make a removable footbox top, to get access to the brake/clutch master cylinders for service.
Making some nice progress on the wiring harness. The modules are now mounted – 2 x Infinity Box PowerCells, 1 x MasterCell (which is the control unit), 1 x TECGT ECU and 1 x Racelogic traction control. The center photo is the start of the fuel injector harness. I decided to terminate all engine wires (except the battery cables and charging wire) with some nifty Amphenol 20 pin weather-tight connectors. That will make removing/installing the engine much easier. YOu can see two of them in the photo on the right.
I’m planning on running an external filter and oil cooler. I found a Trans-Dapt adapter that would bolt onto the FE block oil filter pad and had 1/2″ NPT threaded bosses – perfect, right? Wrong… Since the plumbing is directly between the oil pump and the main galleries, I feel it’s important to have large lines, to minimize the restriction. For that reason, I want to run -10 AN lines. In the first picture, you can see the 1/2″ NPT to -10 AN adapters. The Trans-Dapt pad’s bosses are too close together for -10 lines. No way I’m going to reduce line size to -08 so I decided to make a new adapter. Works great! The AN adapters fit – you can easily put the hoses onto the NPT/AN adapters without the hex fittings hitting each other. It was a bit of work with a manual mill, but this sort of stuff is actually kind of fun to make.
I decided to mount the Infinity Box modules behind the dashboard. The biggest challenge here is to be able to remove the modules (if necessary) without having to remove the dashboard. I did this by making mounts that use rubber grommets and pins on top and screws on the bottom. I fabricated an aluminum frame to hold the modules. Hopefully, this will all work once the firewall, dashboard and body is in place.
Building this car has required a lot of parts orders from all sorts of places. I’ve bought a lot of stuff online and the local UPS and FedEx drivers have come to know our house well. The UPS driver clearly knew what was happening in that house he’d been delivering stuff to. I ordered an office chair found this funny message, clearly written by the UPS driver.
I’m going to use an Aeromotive A1000 fuel pump and plan to run 2 fuel filters: a 100 micron (before the pump) and a 10 micron after it. I couldn’t find a good place to mount the 2nd filter except on one of the 4″ main frame tubes. I looked everywhere for some sort a bracket that would work – no luck. So, I decided to make a pair. They turned out great! I’m very happy with the result.
Here are also a couple shots of the supply (-8) and return (-6) hard lines. The lines are 1 piece from the rear all the way to the firewall.